28 September 2007

I'm Back!

OK! Hey! I'm back! sorry about that big gap! but I've been having some turbulence with internet and quiet busy! Loads has happen since the last time I actually wrote. I added old posts that I wrote a while ago and couldn't upload. (so scroll down for that).

Well, Well, the updating is getting its way through! And I don't know how to continue! I have now started working! finally! dam! the holidays are over!!! I'm supposed to be moving flats, well from the guesthouse to the actual home sweet home, but that's a bloody long and boring story, and I also had a very nice Birthday.
Oh yes! I haven't forgotten the challenges you send me, I really haven't had time, but they are all written in my agenda and I will do them! NB: Bea I'm struggling to find some rollerblades, I will have to borrow some on the square (might be ice-skating soon). And if get into prison for trying to clim the statue you know you I am going to blame! not that It would change something if I'm behind the bars!

So work! well I started monday... It's a very strange feeling indeed! Not only I haven't really work since last year, but is in Mongolian! My counterpart (my equivalent in the office, or the person am working directly with) speaks really good english, but the other 2 not at all. Well not, they understand a bit. My mongolian being so crap, communication is an art of mimics! And for that we have had a few giggles already. On the human side I think is gonna work out well, we are all around the same age, and even if the language is a problem there's a good vibe. They find it very funny when I try to speak mongolian, and teach me words and sentences. Monday we have a meeting to define a bit more what I'm gonna be doing. They gave me a plan of what they wanted me to do, and from my side I spend the week reading and getting info. So Monday is gonna be the big day. I know I have to be extra-carefull of the choice of my words, they are already very defensive about their work. And my presence, although they requested it is a bit of a threat as if I was judging them. So i will have to show my diplomatic skills! Unfortunately is not something I excel at, they were inexistent in my speech at my sis wedding... (for those who where there!) i hope i'll find the word 'cos that meeting could define the rest of our collaboration together. Basically, I'm really enjoying this new experience, it's challenge something i've never done before but willing to learn!

Ok the flat now! Well I'm gonna make it brief, until an hour ago we were supposed to stay in the guesthouse (3 per room) for 3 more weeks. BUT! BUT! I just had the fantastic news that they found a 4 bedroom apartment in a very very very central place, by the square! And apparently a very fancy one! I haven't seen it yet, but we are moving there on Monday! I was literally jumping when i had the news! After sharing a room with 3-4 people and having all my stuff in my bag, i was starting to loose it! but hey hey! home sweet home! I'll post photos once I move in!

And that wasn't the only good thing today, my colleagues invited me for lunch to day to celebrate my belated birthday. A very nice Korean restaurant, is now time for diner but still feel full! I had a few celebrations, i do feel slightly older., but i'm not gonna go there. And I'm sure i'll remember this one. No I didn't have to do any strange things (as drink yak milk or go on a ride on one of them) as some people suggested. Only, after dinner we went to a bar and a couple of friends arrived with a cake and party poppers, quiet enjoyed that. Some street kids had most of the cake, and the rest I took it with me and ended up giving to a fruit seller. I know all this doesn't make much sense to you... Anyway was a good evening!



Ops! forgot! they did make me wear that hat (traditional mongolian hat) for a while! But only indoors.
At the bar, with mEE cake!

The cake!


Well Ladies and Gentelmans, my duty is fullfilled, and now off to celebrate I survived my first week of work!

Embassy & Homestay

So I could start by the British embassy. Every friday the embassy that has his own pub inside the british territory, holds a evening. You need a member card and announce that you are coming before noon. I have to say I was dreading it (a bit too uptight for me) but had an amazing time in there. It's the networking place for foreigns working here, and I sadly need to admit that it felt good to be within westerners for a night.
Some of us having a drink at the caf' next door waiting for the "Steppe Inn" to open (the pub). No! we couldn't wait 30min!!!



After that night the ambassador himself invited us for diner (the new volunteers). I thought it was a privilege, but apparently he does it for every bunch of volunteers that arrive here (I probably shouldn't say it and leave it as a privilege, but cant help it been too honest). I should be careful of what I say as this is a public space and you never know who is gonna read it. It was a very nice evening (the diner at the ambassador residence, I like the way that sounds!) i had the impression to be in the Ferrero-Rocher advertising. But I have to say it felt out of place. As soon as we passed the security line we left Mongolia and entered the western civilization. The US ambassador also lives there and so does most of the US embassy working crowd, the French left because a Hilton Hotel is being construct next to it and it ruined their view!!!. It was certainly agreeable to see flowers and green grass and a European style house, but the luxury lost me. It's not a critique, one has the role that they search for, it was just disturbing to go from one extreme to the other. At the same time i was dribbling in front of the goat cheese quiche and the smoke salmon! I wont lie I had a very good evening, eat loads and enjoy the company, the place and the luxury. I certainly go back if they invite me again, but if i was giving the choice (which wont happen anyway) I would not live there, I much prefer my dusty smelly russian bloc apartment!

After that bizarre evening we went for the other extreme. We had to spend the weekend actually, 4 days in a Mongolian family! I tried to escape, but couldn't. So saturday morning I was downstairs with my backpack and my little piece of paper with my name on it, waiting for the family to come and pick me up. !!!!!!!!!!!!!! I felt like a child going to a summer camp, not! not even that I felt like a child being forced to spend the weekend in your parents' friends house. When i look back it wasn't thaaaaat bad. Ok, honesty please! It wasn't that bad because I didn't stay the whole time, I had to come back to the flat Saturday night (yeap! the same day), then went back on Sunday (to the family) and by Monday after spending the whole night coughing and feeling incredible uncomfortable about sleeping in a double bed when the parents were sleeping in the living room, and the 3 children in one tiny room, I decided to come back. The cold i had was a good enough excuse. The family was lovely, well the children, as the parents worked 8 to 9, even the weekend, so rarely saw them. The idea of the experience was to get to know the culture and to practice the language. So as for learning a bit more about the culture, I did, all this subtleties that are difficult to explain but when you actually live it it makes sense. But for the practicing the language..... lost cause... the eldest girl spoke spotless english (almost). So other than making them laugh when I tried to adventure myself in making a sentence, nope! I didn't practice!


Waiting to be picked up! We do look quiet desperate!
I just wanted to run away, at that point!



1 of the kids from the family, so cute!




27 September 2007

Training finished!!

Mission accomplished, I survived the 5 weeks of training and language course. I'm now totally fluent in Mongolian, NOT! I can just about pick up some words, useless words, in a conversation and have a monologue about myself. Very selfish indeed!
So 5 weeks had passed since I landed in this country (when I wrote this, not when I'm actually publishing it). It seemed like an eternity. It had its ups and downs (as you read) And now 5 weeks after I can look back and with relief go WOuUOUhHOuOU! and at the same time i have a grin of astonishment on my face. It's finish?!
Apparently those weeks are supposed to be the hardest ones. Sharing a room with other people, having all your stuff in your bag. Basically living on top of each-other for 5 weeks, sleeping together, eating together, going to class together, even going to the toilet together... hmmmm not not that close. But it felt like that. The toilet was the only place you could be alone, but then again not for too cos someone needed! But hey! we survived, didn't kill anyone. And when we get together now again we actually happy to see each-other again!
To celebrate the end of the language course we went to the countryside with all the student of the college. I don't know if I said it before, but the college is also a school of tourism for Mongolian. I was quiet grumpy (no I'm never get grumpy!!!) I wasn't sure I wanted to go, I had a bad stomachache (does it ever stop?!) In the bus this teacher was treating us like 2 years olds and making us sing stupid songs (I had my finger on my ears and my head against the seat in front, I was breading deeply not to throw her out of the bus). By the time we arrived I was ready to punch some one. BUT, I went for a walk, it's magical! Climbed the mountain, can't get enough of it, looked around, and every bad feeling flew. Do you know? the trees here only grow on the north side of the mountain? Went back to the ger camp, and realised the horses were being settled. Ran, literally ran there. By the time i got there I got slightly (bloody) scared, they are tiny, but hey! they have a mind of their own! Didn't hesitate much I have to say. The first 10 min were the trial, we both (I named my horse Tabatha (well Rob did) even if it was a male) tested each other. Confidence grew and I had the time of my life! Galloping across the steppes!!! (Tabatha was quiet lazy but we found an agreement; 5 min of galloping 5 of walking or sthg like that) That was what I was dreaming of before I came. Seriously I was in heaven. I loved it! Another highlight so far. Unfortunately we had to go back to the camp, had some lunch and then the second bunch of people went riding. I was just supposed to take some pics and ended up getting on a horse again! Well this time Rupert (different horse) was a bit more stubborn and veeeeery lazy, so slightly different but enjoyable still. The pain afterward, knee join blow apart as always, the cuts due to the mongolian ropes, and my "posterieur" couldn't take the smile out of my face! I think if we had had time I would've gone again, even bleeding! Love it!!!! Love it!!!

Here some evidence!!

We found Chinggis on the way!


Had to pose! sorry!


Just arrived at the ger camp, queuing for the toilet.


This Korean guy was making music out of that sword. Amasing!


The beggining of my walk!


At the top of the hill. The north side.


The south side.


The guys making lunch. Hmmmm




The horse riding!
Tabatha & I


Rupert & I


The group, well some of them!


The other me!


Zuhura & Aime


Jon & Lesley


With Chimgee Bagsh (teacher)



18 September 2007

Winter Palace

Built around 1902, the Winter Palace of Bogd Khaan is where Mongolia's 8th Living Buddha, and last king, Jebtzun Damba Hutagt VIII, lived for 20 years. There's no clear explanation of the reasons why the Palace was spared destruction by the Russian and turn into a museum. I have my own personal idea though, as you can see on the photos, the winter palace itself is quiet Russian style, although they tried to complement it by adding Buddhist decorations. That for me sounds like a quiet a good enough excuse not to destroy it. I might be completely wrong though!
Next to the Palace there's a temple. Where artists and religious people lived and somehow serve the king.


The temple from the outside

It looked good for the picture!
Is just at the entrance, and the Ger is a souvenir shop!
I shouldn't say it, it looses all the glam!

A few details of the temple! The art work of it is amazing! So much into detail, maybe showing the importance they give to their religion. I do not have a picture of it (was being treated) but the main entrance door was built with no nails.


Another freaking Buddha! I've decided to have a collection of those!!!

Bend the head to the left.
It's one of my preferred photos, it's one of the door from the inside of the temple.




The winter palace itself! As you can see quiet European.

14 September 2007

LaChevre et LaMontagne! Ptt Coup de Blues!

Vous, la montagne. Moi, la chevre. La distance, le loup. Le destin, le fermier.

Peut-on resumer notre histoire de cette facon? Peut-on la simplifier a ce point?
Peut-etre! Mais ce ‘peut-etre’ lui donne-t-il pas moins d’importance que “nous” devrions avoir? Je ne le sais!

La chevre voudrait arriver a la montagne, le loup s’interpose et le dermier essaye de le guider vers un autre chemin. Et l’impression constante que le fermier et la chevre sont en desaccord! Pas total, simplement leger. La maitrise partielle de la chevre. Ses choix l’eloignent de la montagne de laquelle elle voudrait rester proche, qu’elle voudrais escalader. Elle voudrais parfois revenir en arriere. Elle hesite parfois. Elle se tracasse de savoir si elle devrait obeir au femier. Tout en sachant qu’au fond le fermier est le maitre de l’histoire. Et que ses choix n’ont plus apres tant de temp d’influence sur l’homme, les cartes ont ete joues il y a deja un petit moment.

Elle decide donc de suivre le fermier. Elle surveille la montagne du coin de l’oeil. Son estomac se contracte par la peur d’oublier le chemin de retour. Elle a peur de perdre sa montagne, elle est precieuse, elle a grandi sur ses colines, elle s’est perdue et retrouvee dans elle. Aujourd’hui le fermier l’amene loin de celle-ci. Et la chevre espere, la peur au ventre, la retrouver.

13 September 2007

One day on the countryside. With a Herder family!

Last Saturday we all jumped in a microbus and off we went with the Ethnologist (forgot his name, having some trouble remembering things lately, I'm blaming the highs) to the middle of nowhere. When we arrived to the place the families lived Dr. realised they have moved, lack of water further down the valley. We then had to find an other family, off we go all packed in, and stop at the first Ger on sight. The ethnologist gets down and talks to the lady, explaining what a bunch of foreigners is doing all squashed in a minivan. She'd be honored to welcome us into her Ger. We ended up spending the whole day with her, share food and drinks. Went for an amazing walk up the mountain. The horses were competing so no riding!! Her husband and son arrived later. The whole day was just amazing! The trip till the place, those landscapes are just indescribable! We had such an interesting conversation with the ethnologist about culture, religion, politics. The best so far. Increased by the walk, the nature. I loved it.


The family cows. Night time they are put in those as there is loads of wolves around.


In the Ger. A traditional Mongolian family.
They had 5 children but they all live in the city now. So is only the couple.

The welcoming lady, whom I forgot the name!

Homemade yogurt, delicious!
Seriously I was a bit sceptical about it, but ended up having seconds!

Just love it! The best way to keep thing and not losing them in the chaos!

The kitchen spot

I probably told you already, Buddhism is the main religion around, the Dalai Lama has come to Mongolia a few times, which creates a lot of trouble with China who closes all the frontiers for the time He's around!

And now some shots outside!

The best way to dry your boots I reckon!

The Ger. The place around the Ger is call the family city. For example if it was my Ger the place around will be called "vdA Hotos" (Hotos=city). When they move the Ger, the head of the family decides of the spot they will put it up, and they offer some milk to the land (the spirit of the mountains though). The build up normally takes 20min, and 2 people are needed.
On the outside you can see the drying cheese.


Yeap! you find those every now and again!

Those actually were the family's.
Didn't like human much I tried to get close but they kept running away!

I don't know how you see this, but living it was amazing, the wind was very strong, the view was 360*. That's what I dreamed off all this time. And there I was! Only the horse was missing! Next time!

I did climbed all. Felt so good! Was a bit surreal, day dreaming motion!

See those white spots at the bottom? That's the Ger! (and this picture is only half way). By the way I was told the Ger felt has always been white, to make it easier to see it from far (supposedly 40km)


My little friend! There were loads of them, Sitting on top of the mountain looking at the landscape with the wind and the sun smashing my face, the concert went for ages. Might sound a bit odd for some, but I think that moment, me on my own sitting there was the first time since I got here that I realised where I was and remember why I was here. Overwhelming!